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Our trip has been influenced by friends who have been to or live
in certain areas. On Friday, July 30th we began our visit to the Gaspe Peninsula based on the advice of friends. The peninsula
is bounded by the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the NE, the St. Lawrence River and Cap-Chat to the N, and Matapedia and the Baie
des Chaleurs to the S. It is circled by the 553 miles of Hwy 132. Having given these statistics I will also say that it is
extremely scenic to drive by the water through towns of neat houses with picture perfect lawns and gardens. Gaspe is translated
as Lands End.
We stayed in a couple of RV Parks near the water. The first was close to the Forillon National Park.
We saw lots of cormorants as well as sea gulls in the area. The second stop was in Perce. Did I mention that the drive of
scenic beauty included a highway built on grades of 8 to 17% Granted the 17% grade was short but some of the 12 and 14% grades
were miles long. Our truck was great towing uphill but there were a few tense moments going downhill. In one instance we pulled
over to let the brakes cool down.
There is an island and some picturesque cliffs near Perce. Ile Bonadventure and
Perce Rock National Park shelter a wildfowl sanctuary including puffin, cormorants and kittiwakes. The most famous and numerous
are the 120,000 northern gannets. Many of the birds can be seen from the boat going to the island but the main breeding ground
is on the opposite side of the landing wharf. The shortest trail takes you to the gannets but rises 135m to get there. The
bird colony is unbelievable. It is impossible to explain the numbers, the raucous sound and the smell. The roundtrip trek
was close to 6 miles. We were really tired but it was worth it.
The next day we hired a 4 wheel drive taxi service
for a two and a half hour tour. The vehicle held the 6 of us comfortably. We were taken to a grotto and a deep crevice in
the mountains. The driver was pleasant and informative.
August 7th we drove to Amherst, Nova Scotia and boon docked.
On the 8th we drove to Baddeck at the start of the Cabot Trail. The first day in Baddeck we went to the Alexander Graham Bell
Museum. It was our second visit but we were still as inspired by his imagination and creativity as the first time. The telephone
is just the tip of the iceberg. Bell worked with the deaf and married one of his students. He was fascinated by flight and
used enormous kites and engines to leave the earth. He also worked to create boats capable of great speed.
St. Ann's
Gaelic College has summer programs dedicated to music and Gaelic culture and language. We went to 2 ceilidhs. We really enjoy
listening to the bagpipes, small pipes, fiddles and the bodhrun (celtic drum). The step dancing inspires the crowd to do a
little toe tapping. The second evening we saw students of a senior age singing songs and refrains while slapping wet cloth
on a table to soften coarse fibers. It was a new experience.
Another new experience was the Highland Museum. It is
a reconstruction village. We have been to quite a few. This one was different because the costumed villagers were so knowledgeable
and anxious to share through actions and stories the history of the people from Scotland. They prefaced it by telling about
the lives in the old country of the 18th century and how it compared to life in the area of Baddeck. We were also introduced
to bannock, a Scottish bread. It has a cake like texture but tastes like bread. Even some of the animals represented Scotland
in the Soay sheep and Highland cattle. The signs in Nova Scotia (Alba Nuadh) are in English and Gaelic. In our travels we
have not been exposed to an area so steeped in tradition and lore as Nova Scotia.
Fort Louisbourg is also a reconstruction
place. This is a military installation that also is set in the 18th century. It has strong ties to both the French and the
English, It twice endured sieges that altered the destiny of North America. It was a thriving trading and fishing port. When
you visit, bring comfortable walking shoes. The 50+ buildings and ruins and the demonstrations will keep you busy for several
hours.
The Cabot Trail is as lovely as we remembered from our first visit. There are innumerable places to stop and
enjoy the vistas. The winding drive follows the water but also goes inland to a bog similar to the one in Yellowstone. There
are cliffs, trees, boulders and driftwood to catch the eye.
The last stop that I will mention for now is Pictou. We
arrived on August 15th. The RV Park host told us to park quickly and go into town. This was the last day of the Hector Festival.
We followed his advice and were in town as fast as we could safely drive. We heard the drums before we saw them. They were
celebrating the Calling of the Pipes. Some of the finest of the bagpipe and drum competition was there. Even the RCMP band
was there in their finest apparel of red serge and kilts. We were also thrilled to watch some wonderful Highland dancing.
They are so precise and graceful while they follow the historic dancing. Each dance tells a story of a great love or maybe
a battle.
Next stop Prince Edward Island.
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